"C" catch
The most common means of securing a brooch before 1900 or so when
"safety catches" were invented. The pin connected to one
side of the brooch is threaded through a layer of the garment and
rests in a "C" shaped catch on the other side of the brooch.
The "C" had no mechanism to hold the pin in place and
so the pins were usually designed to be long enough to extend far
enough beyond the end of the brooch to weave back into the garment
for security.
C-OX
A green cubic zirconia (CZ) stone.
Cable Chain
A chain made of round linked rings of uniform size. This tends to
be what most people think of when they think of the word "chain".
It is the same style of chain as the cable used to anchor large
ships to a dock.
Cabochon
From the French "caboche", meaning "knob/small dome",
a cabochon is a stone cut into the shape of a small dome in a round,
oval, rectangle, triangle, or teardrop shape without any facets.
This style is commonly used with opaque to translucent stones such
as opal, moonstone, jade and turquoise. Some transparent stones
such as emeralds, amethyst and garnet, are also sometimes fashioned
as cabochons. An almandine (garnet) cabochon is called a "carbuncle".
Cairngorm
Cairngorm is a yellow-brown type of smoky quartz that is often used
in traditional Celtic jewelry. Cairngorm is not Scottish topaz.
The supply of cairngorm is virtually exhausted, so heat-treated
Brazilian amethyst is used as a substitute in Scottish jewelry.
Calcium
A silvery-white, moderately hard metallic element which is the fifth
most abundant element comprising approximately 3% of the earth's
crust, and is a basic component of most animals and plants. It burns
with a brilliant light and occurs naturally in limestone, gypsum,
and fluorite.
Calcite
Calcite (Calcium Carbonate, CaCO3) is a very common mineral that
comes in a wide variety of forms, shapes and colors. The trigonal
crystals range from translucent to transparent. Transparent calcite
exhibits a double refraction effect (when you look through the crystal,
singel items are doubled). Calcite has a hardness of 3 (most forms),
a specific gravity of about 2.7, a refractive index of 1.49 and
1.66, and a white streak.
Calibrated
A calibrated stone is one that has been cut exactly to a standard
size, i.e. 5 mm, 10 mm x 14 mm. Jewelers often purchase calibrated
cabochons or faceted stones when the design requires two or more
stones of the same exact size or when a design will be duplicated
many times as in manufactured jewelry.
Calibré Cut
Small stones cut in an oblong shape and set close together.
California ruby
A California ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at
all).
Calsilica
Rainbow calsilica is a newly-found, multi-colored, layered stone
composed of calcium and silica. This stone has been recently used
for Zuni fetish carvings and in some jewelry (beads and cabochon
cut stones). Rainbow calsilica was only recently found in Mexico
or Northern South America (it's origin remains mysterious). Some
people theorize that this stone formed as a result of the runoff
of mining or oil-drilling chemicals, and has only formed in the
last 30 to 50 years (but this is uncertain).
Cameo
A type of jewelry in which the stone around a design is cut away
leaving the design in relief, typically against a contrasting background.
Cameos are often made of shell and coral, although hard stone cameos
such as agate, onyx, and sardonyx are more valuable. Cameos have
been carved from the Hellenistic period, and ancient motifs such
as the goddess Athena or a Baccante, (follower of Bacchus), were
popular cameo subjects in Victorian times through the 1930's. The
opposite of a cameo is called "Intaglio".
Cameo habille
A cameo habille (meaning "dressed cameo" in French) is
a "jewel within a jewel," a cameo in which the subject
carved in the cameo (usually a woman) is wearing a miniature piece
of jewelry (like a tiny diamond necklace with a stone embedded in
the cameo).
Camphor glass
Camphor glass is cloudy white glass that is either blown or pressed.
Camphor glass was very popular in the mid-nineteenth century and
used for jewelry, candlesticks, vases, dishes, barometers, and other
pieces. Camphor glass jewelry imitates rock crystal.
Canary diamonds
Canary diamonds are diamonds that have a deep yellow color. Diamonds
are precious, lustrous gemstones made of highly-compressed carbon;
they are one of the hardest materials known. Diamonds have a hardness
of 10, a specific gravity of 3.5, and a refractive index of 2.417
- 2.419.
Cannetille
A wirework decoration which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to
achieve a delicate scrolling effect.
Cape Amethyst
A form of Amethyst layered or striped with milky quartz.
Cape Ruby
A Cape ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at all).
Carat
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Abbreviated "ct."
and spelled with a "c" is a measure of weight used for
gemstones, (as opposed to karat with a "K", which is a
measure of the purity of a gold alloy). One carat is equal to 1/5
of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are measured to the nearest hundredth
of a carat. A hundredth of a carat is also called a point. Thus
a .10 carat stone can be called either 10 points, or 1/10 of a carat.
Small stones like .05, and .10ct are most often referred to by point
designations. A one carat round diamond of average proportions is
approximately 6.5mm in diameter. Note that this relationship of
weight and size is different for each family of stones. For example
ruby and sapphire are both heavier than diamond (technically, they
have a higher specific gravity, so a 1 carat ruby or sapphire is
smaller in size than a one carat diamond.)
Carbon
A non-metallic element that occurs in all organic compounds and
many inorganic compounds. Carbon is combustible and has the interesting
ability to bond with itself, as well as with many other elements.
Carbonado
A carbonardo is a rare type of opaque black diamond; they are not
used for jewels, but for items like drilling bits and abrasive wheels.
They were once thought to have been formed as a result of a comet
impact 2 billion years ago, but this is no longer thought to be
true. The largest diamond ever found was a carbonardo that weighed
over half a kilogram. Carbonadoes are found in Bahia, Brazil, South
America. Unlike other diamonds, carbonadoes are not found in a crystallized
form - they are found in irregular or rounded fragments. Carbonadoes
have a hardness of 10 and a specific gravity (density) of 3.1-3.3.
Diamonds have a very hard polycrystalline carbon structure.
Carbon Spots
Diamonds are carbon that has been compressed over time. Carbon spots
are a kind of flaw, or "inclusion", found in diamonds
showing as black spots inside the clear diamond.
Carbonate
A substance treated with carbon dioxide, such as limestone.
Carbuncle
An almandine (garnet) cabochon.
Carnegie
Hattie Carnegie was a clothing and jewelry designer who produced
many beautiful costume jewelry pieces, including many figurals.
Carnegie (nee Henrietta Kanengeiser) was born in 1886 in Vienna,
Austria but moved to New York City, NY, USA around the turn of the
century. She later opened a chain of high-priced boutiques and founded
Hattie Carnegie, Inc. Carnegie jewelry is collected by many people
and is marked Carnegie, Hattie Carnegie, of HC within a diamond
and a half oval. The Carnegie mark was first used in January, 1919.
Carnegie also designed hair jewelry, shoe buckles, and jeweled cases,
which were sold with the marks "Pooped Pussy Cat" and
"Pooped Poodle."
Carnelian
A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony, sometimes banded
red and orange like an agate. Once believed to benefit the wearer's
health and love life. Most carnelian comes from Brazil, India, Siberia,
and Germany.
Castellani, Fortunato
Fortunato Castellani (1793-1865) was an Italian jewelry whose work
revived the early Etruscan style of jewelry. His beautifully-made
pieces had intricate workmanship including the ancient Etruscan
art of granulation and carved gemstones. Castellani's sons carried
on his work.
Casting
A means of reproducing an object by making a mold of it and pouring
metal, plaster, or some other material that sets over time into
the mold. See Centrifugal casting, Electrotype, Lost wax process,
and sand casting.
Castlecliff
Castlecliff was a mark used by the Castlecliff Jewelry, Inc., New
York, NY, USA. This costume jewelry company was founded by Clifford
Furst in 1945 and was in business nutil the 1970's.
Catalin
See Bakelite.
Catamore
Catamore Enterprises was a costume jewelry company in operation
from about 1942 to 1981. This large, family-owned business was located
in Providence, Rhode Island. Their jewelry was sold through Sears,
Roebuck and Co., JC Penney Co., Zale Corp., and other stores. Catamore
won a landmark court case against IBM in 1975 for breech of promise
in a computer services contract. Catamore was bought by a London
firm in 1981. Catamore pieces are marked CATAMORE or John Grant
Designs (this mark was first used in 1970). Jewelry by Catamore
was often gold filled in 12 karat gold (marked 1/20 12kgf.) or steling
silver. Many were decorated with rhinestones, cameos, or onyx.
Cathedral Setting
A cathedral ring setting is a simple band that arches when seen
from the side (like the arches of a cathedral).
Cat's eye
Cat's eye (chatoyant chrysoberyl) is a yellow to green-yellow to
gray-green stone with a bright, pupil-like slit that seems to move
slightly as the stone is moved. Most Cat's eye is cut as cabochons
to maximize the distinctive pupil-like effect. Most cat's eye chrysoberyl
is found in Brazil. Cat's eye chrysoberyl has a hardness of 8.5.
This stone is sometimes enhanced by irradiation (this process improves
the color and accentuates the stone's asterism).
Caviness, Alice
Alice Caviness (-1983) was a clothing and costume jewelry designer
who produced high-quality pieces. She began producing pieces in
the late 1940's (after World War 2) and her company is still in
operation, now headed by Caviness' business partner, Lois Stein.
The company is located in Malverne, Long Island, New York.
CE
Common Era, or in the Christian calendar, AD, anno domini, meaning
"in the year of our Lord".
Celebrity
Celebrity is a mark of generally low- to medium-quality costume
jewelry made by a New York company. The trademark "Celebrity"
is owned by the Celebrity Jewelry Company of Philadelphia, Pennnsylvania,
which makes jewelry of gold and silver, with precious stones.
Cell Enameling
See Cloisonné.
Cellini, Benvenuto
Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) was the pre-eminent Italian jeweler
during the renaissance. Cellini's intricate works utilized beautifully-cast
metals, enamel, table-cut gems, and pearls
Celluloid
A plastic derived from cellulose, a natural plant fiber, first synthesized
around 1870 as a synthetic ivory. It can be cut, rolled, folded,
perforated, ironed, turned, or embossed when heated, but cannot
be injected. Celluloid is flammable and deteriorates easily if exposed
to moisture. jewelry made of celluloid was often set with rhinestones.
Hair combs and other dresser articles are still often made of celluloid
today. Also called French ivory, Ivoride, Ivorine, Ivorite, and
Pyralin
Celtic jewelry
Celtic jewelry was made by the Celts in Ireland, Wales, Scotland,
and Brittany. The Celts used bronze, silver and gold in their jewelry
and stones like cairngorm and amethyst. Circular brooches with a
long, hinged pin, called penannular brooches, date from ancient
times. The earliest-known piece of Celtic jewelry is the Hunterston
brooch from A.D. 700
Celtic Revival
Jewelry made during the mid-nineteenth century reflective of the
styles of jewelry used in early Ireland based on archaeological
artifacts.
Center Stone
Usually a diamond, (or other gemstone), that is the prominent center
piece in a ring setting.
Centrifugal Casting
A method of casting jewelry in which molds are attached to the outside
edge of hollow tube. Metal is poured into the tube and as the tube
is spun at high speed centrifugal force pulls the molten metal into
the molds.
Certification
A grading report given to a precious stone by a reputable and recognized
laboratory that defines the physical characteristics and quality
rating of a gem. See Assay and IGI
CFW
CFW is an abbreviation for cultured freshwater pearls.
Chain
A strand of linked loops, rings, or beads used for bracelets or
necklaces. Popular types of chain include: Book chain, Box, Butterfly,
Byzantine, Cable, Cuban, Curb, Figaro, Figogucci, Foxtail, Herringbone,
Marina, Mariner, Mesh, Omega, Panther link, Rolo, Rope, San Marco,
Serpentine, Singapore, and Snake. (See individual listings.)
Chalcedony
A family of colored quartz stones including agate, onyx, carnelian,
cat's eye, and jasper that commonly have a milky or waxlike luster.
When chalcedony is variegated with with spots or figures, or arranged
in differently colored layers, it is called agate; and if by reason
of the thickness, color, and arrangement of the layers it is suitable
for being carved into cameos, it is called onyx.
Champagne Diamond
A champagne diamond is a pinkish brown diamond (having a color of
C2-C3). Most champagne diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in
the Argyle Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen
content
Champlevé
A type of enameling in which powdered glass is placed in areas of
a piece of jewelry that have been carved away specifically for this
purpose before firing. The glass powder melts filling the carved
areas with solid glass.
"C" catch
The most common means of securing a brooch before 1900 or so when
"safety catches" were invented. The pin connected to one
side of the brooch is threaded through a layer of the garment and
rests in a "C" shaped catch on the other side of the brooch.
The "C" had no mechanism to hold the pin in place and
so the pins were usually designed to be long enough to extend far
enough beyond the end of the brooch to weave back into the garment
for security.
C-OX
A green cubic zirconia (CZ) stone.
Cable Chain
A chain made of round linked rings of uniform size. This tends to
be what most people think of when they think of the word "chain".
It is the same style of chain as the cable used to anchor large
ships to a dock.
Cabochon
From the French "caboche", meaning "knob/small dome",
a cabochon is a stone cut into the shape of a small dome in a round,
oval, rectangle, triangle, or teardrop shape without any facets.
This style is commonly used with opaque to translucent stones such
as opal, moonstone, jade and turquoise. Some transparent stones
such as emeralds, amethyst and garnet, are also sometimes fashioned
as cabochons. An almandine (garnet) cabochon is called a "carbuncle".
Cairngorm
Cairngorm is a yellow-brown type of smoky quartz that is often used
in traditional Celtic jewelry. Cairngorm is not Scottish topaz.
The supply of cairngorm is virtually exhausted, so heat-treated
Brazilian amethyst is used as a substitute in Scottish jewelry.
Calcium
A silvery-white, moderately hard metallic element which is the fifth
most abundant element comprising approximately 3% of the earth's
crust, and is a basic component of most animals and plants. It burns
with a brilliant light and occurs naturally in limestone, gypsum,
and fluorite.
Calcite
Calcite (Calcium Carbonate, CaCO3) is a very common mineral that
comes in a wide variety of forms, shapes and colors. The trigonal
crystals range from translucent to transparent. Transparent calcite
exhibits a double refraction effect (when you look through the crystal,
singel items are doubled). Calcite has a hardness of 3 (most forms),
a specific gravity of about 2.7, a refractive index of 1.49 and
1.66, and a white streak.
Calibrated
A calibrated stone is one that has been cut exactly to a standard
size, i.e. 5 mm, 10 mm x 14 mm. Jewelers often purchase calibrated
cabochons or faceted stones when the design requires two or more
stones of the same exact size or when a design will be duplicated
many times as in manufactured jewelry.
Calibré Cut
Small stones cut in an oblong shape and set close together.
California ruby
A California ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at
all).
Calsilica
Rainbow calsilica is a newly-found, multi-colored, layered stone
composed of calcium and silica. This stone has been recently used
for Zuni fetish carvings and in some jewelry (beads and cabochon
cut stones). Rainbow calsilica was only recently found in Mexico
or Northern South America (it's origin remains mysterious). Some
people theorize that this stone formed as a result of the runoff
of mining or oil-drilling chemicals, and has only formed in the
last 30 to 50 years (but this is uncertain).
Cameo
A type of jewelry in which the stone around a design is cut away
leaving the design in relief, typically against a contrasting background.
Cameos are often made of shell and coral, although hard stone cameos
such as agate, onyx, and sardonyx are more valuable. Cameos have
been carved from the Hellenistic period, and ancient motifs such
as the goddess Athena or a Baccante, (follower of Bacchus), were
popular cameo subjects in Victorian times through the 1930's. The
opposite of a cameo is called "Intaglio".
Cameo habille
A cameo habille (meaning "dressed cameo" in French) is
a "jewel within a jewel," a cameo in which the subject
carved in the cameo (usually a woman) is wearing a miniature piece
of jewelry (like a tiny diamond necklace with a stone embedded in
the cameo).
Camphor glass
Camphor glass is cloudy white glass that is either blown or pressed.
Camphor glass was very popular in the mid-nineteenth century and
used for jewelry, candlesticks, vases, dishes, barometers, and other
pieces. Camphor glass jewelry imitates rock crystal.
Canary diamonds
Canary diamonds are diamonds that have a deep yellow color. Diamonds
are precious, lustrous gemstones made of highly-compressed carbon;
they are one of the hardest materials known. Diamonds have a hardness
of 10, a specific gravity of 3.5, and a refractive index of 2.417
- 2.419.
Cannetille
A wirework decoration which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to
achieve a delicate scrolling effect.
Cape Amethyst
A form of Amethyst layered or striped with milky quartz.
Cape Ruby
A Cape ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at all).
Carat
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Abbreviated "ct."
and spelled with a "c" is a measure of weight used for
gemstones, (as opposed to karat with a "K", which is a
measure of the purity of a gold alloy). One carat is equal to 1/5
of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are measured to the nearest hundredth
of a carat. A hundredth of a carat is also called a point. Thus
a .10 carat stone can be called either 10 points, or 1/10 of a carat.
Small stones like .05, and .10ct are most often referred to by point
designations. A one carat round diamond of average proportions is
approximately 6.5mm in diameter. Note that this relationship of
weight and size is different for each family of stones. For example
ruby and sapphire are both heavier than diamond (technically, they
have a higher specific gravity, so a 1 carat ruby or sapphire is
smaller in size than a one carat diamond.)
Carbon
A non-metallic element that occurs in all organic compounds and
many inorganic compounds. Carbon is combustible and has the interesting
ability to bond with itself, as well as with many other elements.
Carbonado
A carbonardo is a rare type of opaque black diamond; they are not
used for jewels, but for items like drilling bits and abrasive wheels.
They were once thought to have been formed as a result of a comet
impact 2 billion years ago, but this is no longer thought to be
true. The largest diamond ever found was a carbonardo that weighed
over half a kilogram. Carbonadoes are found in Bahia, Brazil, South
America. Unlike other diamonds, carbonadoes are not found in a crystallized
form - they are found in irregular or rounded fragments. Carbonadoes
have a hardness of 10 and a specific gravity (density) of 3.1-3.3.
Diamonds have a very hard polycrystalline carbon structure.
Carbon Spots
Diamonds are carbon that has been compressed over time. Carbon spots
are a kind of flaw, or "inclusion", found in diamonds
showing as black spots inside the clear diamond.
Carbonate
A substance treated with carbon dioxide, such as limestone.
Carbuncle
An almandine (garnet) cabochon.
Carnegie
Hattie Carnegie was a clothing and jewelry designer who produced
many beautiful costume jewelry pieces, including many figurals.
Carnegie (nee Henrietta Kanengeiser) was born in 1886 in Vienna,
Austria but moved to New York City, NY, USA around the turn of the
century. She later opened a chain of high-priced boutiques and founded
Hattie Carnegie, Inc. Carnegie jewelry is collected by many people
and is marked Carnegie, Hattie Carnegie, of HC within a diamond
and a half oval. The Carnegie mark was first used in January, 1919.
Carnegie also designed hair jewelry, shoe buckles, and jeweled cases,
which were sold with the marks "Pooped Pussy Cat" and
"Pooped Poodle."
Carnelian
A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony, sometimes banded
red and orange like an agate. Once believed to benefit the wearer's
health and love life. Most carnelian comes from Brazil, India, Siberia,
and Germany.
Castellani, Fortunato
Fortunato Castellani (1793-1865) was an Italian jewelry whose work
revived the early Etruscan style of jewelry. His beautifully-made
pieces had intricate workmanship including the ancient Etruscan
art of granulation and carved gemstones. Castellani's sons carried
on his work.
Casting
A means of reproducing an object by making a mold of it and pouring
metal, plaster, or some other material that sets over time into
the mold. See Centrifugal casting, Electrotype, Lost wax process,
and sand casting.
Castlecliff
Castlecliff was a mark used by the Castlecliff Jewelry, Inc., New
York, NY, USA. This costume jewelry company was founded by Clifford
Furst in 1945 and was in business nutil the 1970's.
Catalin
See Bakelite.
Catamore
Catamore Enterprises was a costume jewelry company in operation
from about 1942 to 1981. This large, family-owned business was located
in Providence, Rhode Island. Their jewelry was sold through Sears,
Roebuck and Co., JC Penney Co., Zale Corp., and other stores. Catamore
won a landmark court case against IBM in 1975 for breech of promise
in a computer services contract. Catamore was bought by a London
firm in 1981. Catamore pieces are marked CATAMORE or John Grant
Designs (this mark was first used in 1970). Jewelry by Catamore
was often gold filled in 12 karat gold (marked 1/20 12kgf.) or steling
silver. Many were decorated with rhinestones, cameos, or onyx.
Cathedral Setting
A cathedral ring setting is a simple band that arches when seen
from the side (like the arches of a cathedral).
Cat's eye
Cat's eye (chatoyant chrysoberyl) is a yellow to green-yellow to
gray-green stone with a bright, pupil-like slit that seems to move
slightly as the stone is moved. Most Cat's eye is cut as cabochons
to maximize the distinctive pupil-like effect. Most cat's eye chrysoberyl
is found in Brazil. Cat's eye chrysoberyl has a hardness of 8.5.
This stone is sometimes enhanced by irradiation (this process improves
the color and accentuates the stone's asterism).
Caviness, Alice
Alice Caviness (-1983) was a clothing and costume jewelry designer
who produced high-quality pieces. She began producing pieces in
the late 1940's (after World War 2) and her company is still in
operation, now headed by Caviness' business partner, Lois Stein.
The company is located in Malverne, Long Island, New York.
CE
Common Era, or in the Christian calendar, AD, anno domini, meaning
"in the year of our Lord".
Celebrity
Celebrity is a mark of generally low- to medium-quality costume
jewelry made by a New York company. The trademark "Celebrity"
is owned by the Celebrity Jewelry Company of Philadelphia, Pennnsylvania,
which makes jewelry of gold and silver, with precious stones.
Cell Enameling
See Cloisonné.
Cellini, Benvenuto
Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) was the pre-eminent Italian jeweler
during the renaissance. Cellini's intricate works utilized beautifully-cast
metals, enamel, table-cut gems, and pearls
Celluloid
A plastic derived from cellulose, a natural plant fiber, first synthesized
around 1870 as a synthetic ivory. It can be cut, rolled, folded,
perforated, ironed, turned, or embossed when heated, but cannot
be injected. Celluloid is flammable and deteriorates easily if exposed
to moisture. jewelry made of celluloid was often set with rhinestones.
Hair combs and other dresser articles are still often made of celluloid
today. Also called French ivory, Ivoride, Ivorine, Ivorite, and
Pyralin
Celtic jewelry
Celtic jewelry was made by the Celts in Ireland, Wales, Scotland,
and Brittany. The Celts used bronze, silver and gold in their jewelry
and stones like cairngorm and amethyst. Circular brooches with a
long, hinged pin, called penannular brooches, date from ancient
times. The earliest-known piece of Celtic jewelry is the Hunterston
brooch from A.D. 700
Celtic Revival
Jewelry made during the mid-nineteenth century reflective of the
styles of jewelry used in early Ireland based on archaeological
artifacts.
Center Stone
Usually a diamond, (or other gemstone), that is the prominent center
piece in a ring setting.
Centrifugal Casting
A method of casting jewelry in which molds are attached to the outside
edge of hollow tube. Metal is poured into the tube and as the tube
is spun at high speed centrifugal force pulls the molten metal into
the molds.
Certification
A grading report given to a precious stone by a reputable and recognized
laboratory that defines the physical characteristics and quality
rating of a gem. See Assay and IGI
CFW
CFW is an abbreviation for cultured freshwater pearls.
Chain
A strand of linked loops, rings, or beads used for bracelets or
necklaces. Popular types of chain include: Book chain, Box, Butterfly,
Byzantine, Cable, Cuban, Curb, Figaro, Figogucci, Foxtail, Herringbone,
Marina, Mariner, Mesh, Omega, Panther link, Rolo, Rope, San Marco,
Serpentine, Singapore, and Snake. (See individual listings.)
Chalcedony
A family of colored quartz stones including agate, onyx, carnelian,
cat's eye, and jasper that commonly have a milky or waxlike luster.
When chalcedony is variegated with with spots or figures, or arranged
in differently colored layers, it is called agate; and if by reason
of the thickness, color, and arrangement of the layers it is suitable
for being carved into cameos, it is called onyx.
Champagne Diamond
A champagne diamond is a pinkish brown diamond (having a color of
C2-C3). Most champagne diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in
the Argyle Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen
content
Champlevé
A type of enameling in which powdered glass is placed in areas of
a piece of jewelry that have been carved away specifically for this
purpose before firing. The glass powder melts filling the carved
areas with solid glass.
Chandelier Earring
An earring with a drop suspended like a chandelier. Also called
a "Drop Earring" or "Dangle Earring".
Channel Inlay
A design similar to enameling in which stones, rather than melted
plastic or glass, are cut to shape and set into the recesses of
a piece of jewelry. Commonly seen with jewelry using mother of pearl
and turquoise.
Channel Set
A style of setting in which a number of uniformly sized small stones,
usually of the round cut, princess cut or baguette shapes, are set
side by side in a grooved channel. Unlike most setting methods the
stones are not secured individually with prongs and there is no
metal visible between the stones.
Chaplet
A garland, wreath, or ornamented band worn around the head. Chaplets
are made of metal with repoussé decoration or embellished
with gemstones and pearls.
Charel
Charel is a mark of relatively rare, medium-quality costume jewelry
made by the Charel Jewelry Company, Inc. of Brooklyn, New York.
Many Charel pieces have pastel-colored plastic stones on plated
metal.
Charm
A pendant or trinket worn on a bracelet, earring or necklace.
Charm Bracelet
A chain link bracelet with charms attached to it. (It's not a charm
bracelet until it has charms attached.)
Charm Ring
A ring with a charm attached to the ring band.
Charoite
Charoite is a fairly recent discovery found in Russia in 1978 in
the Murun mountains in Yakutia, near the Charo River. This is the
only known location for this rare mineral.
It ranges in color from a light lilac to a deep purple and can be
mottled with gray, white and black inclusions. The chatoyant variety
in a bright deep purple, is usually considered more valuable than
the non-chatoyant variety although both are used in jewelry and
compliment a number of other stones.
Chasing
A method of decorating the front, (or outside), of metal objects
by making indentations using shaped punches and a chasing hammer.
The opposite of chasing is repoussé.
Chatelaine
French for "Lady of the House", a chatelaine is an ornamental
chain or pin worn at a woman's waist from which dangle keys, trinkets,
scissors, needle cases, pencils, purse, etc. Chatelaines may be
utilitarian or beautifully decorated and made from precious materials
like silver.
Chatham synthetic rubies
Chatham synthetic rubies (laboratory-created rubies) were introduced
by Carroll Chatham in 1959.
Chaton
A cone shaped rhinestone or crystal.
Chaton setting
A châton setting (also called coronet or arcade setting) is
one in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around a metal
ring.
Chatoyancy
Chatoyancy is the lustrous, cat's eye effect seen in some cabochon
stones, like cat's eye, tiger's eye (pictured above), and sometimes
in other stones, like aquamarine. In chatoyancy, light is reflected
in thin bands within the stone. Chatoyant stones are cut in cabochon
to maximize the lustrous effect.
Chatoyant
A stone having a changeable luster due to the way it reflects light,
such as the cat's-eye or tiger's eye gemstones. From the French
"chatoyer", meaning to shimmer like cats' eyes, from the
French "chat" meaning "cat".
Chenier
Chenier is fine, hollow tubing that is used in the production of
some jewelry findings (like clasps and joints), and lately, in the
actual production of jewelry. The hollow tubes are lightweight and
save in the use of gold. The tubes are hard to bend when they are
empty, so a metal rod is inserted before bending, facilitating the
bending.
Chevron setting
A chevron is a design found in heraldry resembling a shallow inverted
"V". In jewelry design, a "chevron setting"
is reflective of the heraldic chevron in that it is made up of lines
in a shallow inverted "V" pattern.
Chinese opal
Chinese opal is a misnomer for pearl opal (a type of organic opal),
moonstone, or white chalcedony
Chloride
Any compound containing a chlorine atom.
Chlorine
An abundant element which, when isolated, appears as a poisonous,
greenish-yellow gas with a disagreeable odor. It occurs naturally
only as a salt, as in sea-water. Chlorine is used widely to purify
water, as a disinfectant and bleaching agent, and in the manufacture
of many important compounds including chloroform and carbon tetrachloride.
Choker
A close fitting necklace worn tight around the neck like a collar.
Chrome
A hard, brittle, grayish white metal, fusible with difficulty and
resistant to corrosion. Its chief commercial importance is for its
compounds, as potassium chromate, lead chromate, etc., which are
brilliantly colored and are used dyeing and calico printing. The
common modern usage is for very shiny metal objects like chrome
bumpers, etc.
Chrome diopside
Chrome diopside is an emerald-green colored gemstone. It is a chromium-rich
variety of the common mineral diopside (Calcium magnesium silicate).
Chrome diopside has a hardness of 5 to 6 and a specific gravity
of 3.3 to 3.6.
Chromium
A lustrous, hard brittle, steel-blue metallic element, resistant
to corrosion and tarnishing. It is used in the hardening of steel
alloys and the production of stainless steels, in corrosion-resistant
decorative platings, and as a pigment in glass.
Chronograph
A chronograph is a stopwatch mechanism on a watch; it can be started,
stopped and reset independently from the watch.
Chrysoberyl
A rare, hard, yellow-green mineral consisting of alumina and glucina,
(beryllium aluminate), in crystal form. It is popular as a gemstone
for its chatoyant qualities.
Chrysocolla
Chrysocolla (meaning "golden lime" in Greek) is an opaque
blue to blue-green mineral sometimes used in jewelry. It is usually
cut as a cabochon. Chrysocolla (hydrated copper silicate) is found
embedded in rock crystal in copper mines in the USA, Russia, Chile,
and the Congo. Although Chrysocolla has been used in ornaments since
the time of the ancient Greeks, it was only described mineralogically
in 1968. Its hardness varies from 2 to 4.
Chrysolite
A mineral composed of silica, magnesia, and iron sometimes used
as a gem. Chrysolite ranges in color from a light pea green to a
deep olive green and an oily shine. It is common in certain volcanic
rocks and meteorites. Mystics have claimed that this lustrous green
stone drives away evil and has special healing properties. The name
chrysolite has been used in the past for yellow varieties of tourmaline
and topaz.
Chrysoprase
Chrysoprase is the most valued variety of the mineral chalcedony
(microcrystalline quartz) that contains nickel, giving it an apple-green
color. Chrysoprase is porous and translucent. It is usually cut
as a cabichon, and has been used since ancient times. Chrysoprase
has a hardness of 7 and a specific gravity of 2.6. Chrysoprase is
mined in Australia, Russia (the Ural Mtns.), Brazil, and the western
USA. Chrysoprase is sometimes called "Australian jade,"
but it is not related to jade. Hard-to-detect imitation chrysoprase
is made by staining agate with chromium salts.
Cigar band
A very wide band-style ring.
Ciner
Ciner is a jewelry complany that was founded in 1895 by Emanuel
Ciner, originally producing fine jewelry. Since 1931, Ciner began
producing high-end costume jewelry with very good quality stones
(including Swarovski rhinestones) and 18-carat gold plated finishes.
Their "pearls" are specially made by coating glass beads
with pearl luster many times. Many Ciner pieces have a multitude
of tiny, good-quality stones. The starfish pin above has jade-colored
stones and pavé rhinestones.
Cini
Cini produces jewelry made of silver and gold-plated silver (vermeil),
some with colored rhinestones (in later pieces). Cini pieces are
known for their beautiful workmanship, artistic designs, and intricate
detail. The company was formed by Guglielmo Cini, who was trained
as a jeweler in Florence, Italy, and emigrated to the USA in 1922.
He made jewelry in Boston, Massachusetts but moved to Laguna Beach,
California, in 1957. The company went out of business in 1970, but
has been reopened by the Cini grandaughters, Amy and Molly. The
vintage silver lion pin above is by Cini.
Cinnabar
Cinnabar is the mineral Mercury Sulfide. Its color ranges from cinnamon
to scarlet to brick red and it can be translucent to transparent.
It is often carved. Cinnabar has a hardness of 2 - 2.5 (very soft)
and a specific gravity of 8.1 (quite heavy).
Cinnamon stone
A brown or yellowish-brown variety of garnet more properly called
"essonite".
Cire perdu
Cire perdu (French for "lost wax") is a process of casting
metal in which the original model is sculpted in wax. The wax is
entombed in clay, and the wax is then melted out, producing a hollow
mold. The mold is then filled with molten metal. The clay is broken
off and the cast metal remains.
Citrine
Named after the French word for lemon, "citron". Citrine
is often incorrectly called quartz topaz or citrine topaz. A variety
of quartz, citrine is found in light yellow, amber-brown, and a
brilliant orange that may be confused with fine imperial topaz.
Most citrine comes from South America. In ancient times, citrine
was revered as a gift of the sun and believed to be a powerful antidote
to a viper's venom. Citrine is the birthstone for November.
Claddagh Ring
First crafted by Master Goldsmith Richard Joyce in 1689, it is named
after Claddagh, the fishing village he lived in at the time, which
overlooks Galway Bay. The ring belongs to a class of rings called
"Fede" or "Faith rings", which date from Roman
times and were popular in the Middle Ages throughout Europe. Whereas
"Fede" rings have only two clasped hands, symbolizing
faith, trust, or "plighted troth", Claddagh rings have
two hands clasping a heart, symbolizing love, surmounted by a crown,
symbolizing loyalty. The ring worn on the right hand with the heart
turned outward indicates that your heart is yet unoccupied. Worn
on the right hand with the heart turned inward indicates that love
is being considered. Worn on the left hand the with the heart turned
inward shows everyone that your heart is truly spoken for.
Clarity
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Gemstones with the highest
clarity contain few or no inclusions (imperfections) in the stone's
crystalline structure. Clarity is graded with a 10x magnifier. The
clarity rating of a diamond ranges from FL (flawless) to I (inclusions
visible to the naked eye).
Clasp
A device used to connect two ends of a necklace, bracelet or watch
strap. Popular types of clasps include: Barrel, box, Lobster claw,
and Spring ring clasps. (See individual listings).
Class Ring
A ring that commemorates graduating from high school. It is usually
engraved with the name of the school, the year of graduation, and
a gem featuring one of the school's colors.
Claudette
Claudette (and C. Claudette) are marks on costume jewelry made by
the Premier Jewelry Company, Inc. of New York, New York, USA. The
relatively rare Claudette marks were first used in December, 1945.
Claw
A claw is a metal prong that holds a stone securely in a setting.
Claw Setting
A way of securing a stone in its mount using small prongs that surround
it.
Cleaning Jewelry
The safest and easiest way to clean most jewelry is with a detergent
bath. Swish together warm water and any mild liquid detergent. Clean
the jewelry with a soft brush while it's in the suds, then rinse
it under warm running water. Pat it dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Avoid using brushes, which can scratch gold. Never boil gold, and
avoid using ammonia, toothpaste, a powder cleanser or scouring pads.
Keep gold away from chlorine, lotions, cosmetics and perm solutions,
since these products may discolor or dissolve gold alloys. gemstones
rarely need cleaning unless they become dirty from hand lotion,
hairspray or other products. They can be cleaned using a soft cloth
with mild soap and water, but rinse well. If you are using a silver
or gold jewelry dip solution, most are safe for gemstones, but read
the label to make sure. Do not boil gemstones. Do not wear pearls
while applying cosmetics, hair sprays or perfume. It's best not
to wear pearl strands while bathing, because water can weaken the
string. Wipe pearl strands with a damp cloth after each use. Do
not clean cultured pearls with chemicals, abrasives or jewelry cleaner.
Clear Quartz
A colorless transparent mineral consisting of silicon dioxide in
crystal form. See Quartz.
Cleavage
Cleavage is the tendency which a stone has to fracture along its
crystal structure.
Clip-on
A piece of jewelry designed to be attached by means of a clip, such
as a clip-back earring.
Clip-back Earring
A hinged ring with a pad, called a "comfort back", at
one end to secure the earring to the earlobe without requiring that
the ear be pierced.
Cloisonné
Occasionally called "cell enameling", it is a type of
enameling in which compartments made of thin strips of metal soldered
onto a metal plate are filled with powdered glass prior to firing.
The glass powder melts filling the compartments with solid glass.
Closed Setting
A closed setting is one in which the back of the stone is not exposed
(the metal is not cut away behind the stone).
Cloud
A form of inclusion, “clouds” are white milky areas
that can found in the diamond.
Cluster
Several stones grouped together in a jewelry setting.
Cluster Brooch
A brooch developed in the 14th century in which a large central
gemstone is surrounded by a cluster of smaller gemstones and pearls.
Cluster Earring
A decorative earring made up of a cluster of glass and/or metal
beads and stones
Cluster Ring
A ring featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a number of smaller
stones.
Cluster setting
A cluster setting is one in which small stones or pearls are set
around a larger stone.
Clutch
A device that is slid along a post to secure a piece of jewelry,
such as the earring back of a stud for pierced ears.
Cocktail Ring
A large oversized ring set with precious or semiprecious stones
popular during the 1940s and 1950s.
Cognac Diamond
A cognac diamond is a cognac-brown diamond (having a color of C7).
Most cognac diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in the Argyle
Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen content.
Coiffe
A net made of gold or silver threads, decorated with gems or pearls
worn on the head.
Coin Silver
A silver alloy that is 80% silver and 20% copper. Many European
silver pieces are coin silver and are marked "800", indicating
that 800 parts out of 1000 are silver.
Coin-style edge
see Milgrain edge.
Collar
A necklace worn close around the neck. See also "choker".
Collarette
A collarette (also known as a bib necklace) is a short necklace
with flowing ornaments at the front.
Collet
The ring of metal that surrounds and secures the stone in a bezel
setting.
Collet Setting
A collet setting is a very early method of setting gemstones. A
collet is a thin, round band of metal that goes all around the stone.
One edge of the metal is crimped over the edges of the stone and
the other edge is soldered to the metal of the jewelry, holding
the stone in place. This closed setting sometimes also had metal
claws along the outside to hold the stone even more securely (the
claws were not used much after the 1200's and 1300's.
Color
One of the 4 C s of diamond grading, the term "color"
actually refers to the absence of color in a diamond. A diamond
acts like a prism letting light pass through, refracting back to
the human eye, into a rainbow of color. The color scale breaks up
the subtlety and various grades of a diamond’s color from
purest white to yellow and brown. The letters D through Z are used
to designate a diamonds color with D being colorless and Z-graded
stones having a lot of color.
Colored Diamond
Diamondss can be found in a full spectrum of colors. Colored or
“Fancy” diamonds are simply referring to diamonds that
are not white.
Colored Gold
An alloy of gold and other metals producing rose, yellow, white,
and green shades.
Comfort back
A rubber or plastic pad that goes over the clip end of a clip-on
earring to cushion the earlobe.
Comfort Fit
A ring that adds to the comfort of the wearer by being curved on
the inside of the shank.
Commemorative Wares
Items used to commemorate an important or historical event, such
as a battle, coronation, or wedding.
Compass Ring
A rotating ring that can be used to determine compass direction
by using the position of the sun and the time of day.
Composite Suite
A composite suite is a piece of jewelry that can be taken apart
into two or more pieces which can also be worn. For example, a necklace
may be disassembled into two bracelets.
Concave
Concave simply means "curving inward", like the inside
of an egg shell. The opposite of Convex.
Conch
Conch is a marine animal (a mollusk) with a large, beautiful pearly
shell that varies in color, but if often white or pink (pink is
the most valued color). Queen conch has a large, pink shell. Conch
shell is often used to make jewelry. Conch is made into beads and
cameos. Conch has a hardness of 2.85 (it is relatively soft).
Concha
One of the ovals of a segmented silver belt or bridle. Also a reference
to the belt itself. Now commonly called a "Concho Belt."
From the Spanish word "concha", meaning "shell".
Concho
See Concha.
Condition , Excellent
A piece of jewelry in Excellent Condition will show reasonable evidence
of wear, and have a fine patina.
Condition, Fine
A piece of jewelry in Fine Condition may show slight wear, but not
enough to have developed a patina.
Condition, Good
A piece of jewelry in Good Condition will show substantial evidence
of wear. It will have a noticeable patina which may include numerous
very fine pits or lines. It will not have cracks, chips, obviously
discolored or poorly replaced stones, evidence of glue or other
repairs, or other evidence of hard wear considered to be damage.
Damage of any kind is separately detailed in the item description,
and generally items with damage appear at very reduced prices in
the Bargain section.
Condition, Mint
A piece of jewelry having no signs of wear whatsoever, including
no discolored stones. A piece that is in Mint Condition is in virtually
the same condition as it was when it left the manufacturer. Considering
that vintage jewelry is usually 50 or more years old, and that it
likely has been worn, it is obviously quite rare to find a piece
that is truly in Mint Condition.
Confetti lucite
Confetti lucite is transparent plastic with glitter or other small
pieces of material within it. Whimsical bangles, earrings, pins,
necklaces and other jewelry have been made from confetti lucite.
Continenta
Continental was a Canadian costume jewelry company that produced
good-quality pieces, usually studded with colorful rhinestones.
Contra luz opal
Contra luz (also spelled contraluz) opals are transparent opals
that show a brilliant play of iridescence only when light shines
through the stone. When the light is on the same side as the viewer,
the iridescence is not readily seen (this quality makes it difficult
to design jewelry using these beautiful gemstones). Contra luz means
"against the light." Unlike other opals, contra luz opals
are usually faceted (rather than cabochoned).
Convex
Simply means "curving outward", like the surface of a
ball. The opposite of Concave.
Copper
A common reddish-brown metallic element, copper is the only metal
which occurs abundantly in large masses as opposed to small veins
or nuggets that must be mined out of other rocks. It is also found
in various ores such as chalcopyrite, chalcocite, cuprite, and malachite.
When alloyed with tin it forms bronze, and when alloyed with zinc
it forms brass. Copper is an excellent conductor of heat and electricity
and is widely used for electrical wiring, as well as water piping
and corrosion-resistant parts. When in moist conditions, a greenish
layer forms on the outside. It has been extracted and used for thousands
of years. The name is derived from the Greek "kupros"
(the island of Cyprus), called "Cyprian brass", and known
by the Romans as 'cuprum.'
Coral
Coral is a form of calcium carbonate, (like aragonite or marble),
secreted in long chains by coral polyps, who live in colonies under
the ocean. Coral can be found all over the world, but the bulk of
coral used in jewelry making has always come from the waters off
Sardinia and the coast of Sicily, in the Mediterranean. Coral comes
in colors from vivid orange, red, and white, to salmon and pale
pink (called angelskin coral). In jewelry making, coral is either
carved into beads, cameos, and other forms, or is left in its natural
branch-like form and just polished. During the mid-Victorian era
large cameo brooches of coral finely carved in high-relief floral
sprays or faces were popular. It used to be thought that coral protected
the wearer, so it was a traditional gift to children. Since it is
composed of calcium carbonate, real coral will effervesce if touched
with acid. Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain, or plastic
and will not effervesce when touched with acid.
Coral
Coral is an animal that grows in colonies in the ocean. Coral polyps
secrete a strong calcium structure that is used in jewelry making.
Coral ranges in color from pale pink (called angelskin coral) to
orange to red to white to black. The most valued colors are deep
red (called noble coral) and pink. In jewelry making, coral is either
carved into beads, cameos, or other forms, or is left in its natural
branch-like form and just polished. It used to be thought that coral
protected the wearer, so it was a traditional gift to children.
Coral has a hardness of about 3.5 and a specific gravity of 2.6
to 2.7. Since it is composed of calcium carbonate, coral will effervesce
if touched with acid. Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain,
or plastic.
Corallium rubrum
A valuable red coral introduced to the Indians by the Spanish.
Cord belt
A thick belt worn on the waist, usually with a caftan.
Cornelian
Cornelian (also called carnelian and carneole) is a reddish form
of chalcedony (a type of quartz). This translucent stone has a waxy
luster. The best carnelian is from India. Most commercial carnelian
is really stained chalcedony. Carnelian has a hardness of 7 and
a specific gravity of 2.61.
Cornucopia
The cornucopia is a symbol of plenty and is used sometimes in jewelry.
The Trifari cornucopia pin/clip pictured above is gold colored.
It has a double-pronged fastening mechanism that can be used either
as a fur clip or as a pin.
Coro
Coro, Inc. is the largest costume jewelry company. It was founded
by Cohn and Rosenberger early in 1919, producing reasonably-priced
jewelry. Many Coro pieces are avidly collected, including their
duettes, sterling pieces, and many intricate older pieces.
Coro Duettes
Coro duettes are patented sets of jewelry made by the Coro company.
Each "duette" has two clips which attach to a pin base;
they can be worn as a single pin or as two clips.
Coronet
A small or inferior type of crown worn by a person of high rank
but lower than a sovereign.
Coronet setting
See Arcade Setting.
Corundum
The name of a family of stones composed of crystallized aluminum
and oxygen that includes rubies and sapphires. The color of these
stones depends on the oxides present in their composition. Corundum
is one of the hardest minerals second only to diamonds rating a
9 on the Mohs scale. See alumina.
Coventry
Sarah Coventry is a company that produced mid-range costume jewelry.
The Sarah Coventry jewelry company was founded in Newark, New Jersey,
USA by Charles H. Stuart (who earlier founded the Emmons jewelry
company) in November, 1948. He named the company after his his grand-daughter.
Sarah Coventry jewelry was sold at home fashion shows until 1984,
when the company was sold. Both women's and men's jewelry was produced
under the marks Sarah Coventry (first used in May, 1949), SC (first
used in Oct. 1953), Sarah Cov (first used in Jan. 1960). Sarah Coventry
jewelry came with a "Lifetime Guarantee" which read, "May
be sent back for repair to: P.O. Box 7899, Warwick, RI 02887. Please
include handling charge of 1.50."
Cowrie Shell
The highly polished and brightly marked shells of tropical marine
gastropods of the genus Cypraea, some of which are used as currency
in the South Pacific and Africa. Small cowrie shells are commonly
used as beads in jewelry.
Crimp Bead
Small soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure clasps onto
the ends of cords or chains.
Crown
The upper part of a cut diamond or stone above the girdle.
Crown Glass
Crown glass is glass that contains no lead oxide. Some fake rhinestones
are made from crown glass.
Crown Height
A measurement of the distance from the girdle to the table on a
diamond or other cut stone.
Crystal
A fine, high-quality glass invented in 17th century England. In
order to be considered crystal rather than simple glass, the product
must contain at least 10% lead oxide. The lead oxide is attributed
to providing the glass with extraordinary qualities of brilliance,
sound and a suitable texture for cutting or engraving. Some of the
finest crystal ever made is from Baccarat in France (est. 1816)
and Waterford in Ireland (est. 1729).
Crystal (GLASS)
Crystal is high-quality glass containing at least 10% lead oxide.
Lead added to the melt produces very clear glass resembling rock
crystal. The process of making lead crystal was discovered by the
English glassmaker George Ravenscroft in 1676. Crystal is colored
by adding various metallic oxides to the melt.
Crystal (NATURAL)
A crystal is a solid whose atoms form a very regular structure.
Some crystals include quartz, diamond, and emerald.
Crystal Habit
Crystal habit is the crystal form that a particular crystal has.
The most common crystal habits are:
Prismatic - elongated with parallel sides, like emerald, tourmaline
Tabular - short and flat (table-like), like morganite
Ocatahedral - eight faces, like diamond
Dodecahedral - 12 faces, like garnet
Acicular - needle-shaped, like rutilated quartz
Platy - occurring in very thin plates, like hematite
Crystal Systems
Crystals are divided into seven crystal systems, according to their
optical properties (how light bends within the crystal), plane of
symmetry, axis of symmetry, center of symmetry, crystallographic
axis. Within each of the systems, the cyrstals can mineralize into
different crystal habits (form). The seven crystal systems are:
cubic systems, tetragonal systems, hexagonal systems, trigonal systems,
orthorhombic systems, monoclinic systems, and triclinic systems.
For more information on crystal systems, click here.
Crystalline
A substance composed of crystals or resembling crystal in transparency,
structure and outline.
Crystallize
To cause a material to form crystals or to assume both the internal
structure and external form of a crystal.
Cuban Link Chain
A standard cable chain with oval shaped links that are each decorated
with a twisting pattern resembling rope.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ)
A clear, hard, mass-produced gemstone cut to resemble a diamond.
The mineral baddeleyite has the same chemical composition, but to
become a CZ the mineral must be heated to almost 5000 degrees Fahrenheit
and have an oxide stabilizer such as yttrium or calcium added to
keep it from reverting back to its original form when cooled. Almost
all the rough CZ's in the market are composed of zirconium oxide
and yttrium oxide, both of which are naturally white but combine
to form a brilliant clear crystal. Like diamonds, the best cubic
zirconia gems are colorless but colored forms are also manufactured.
Vivid green CZ is sometimes referred to as C-OX, and CZ in numerous
colors is frequently sold under various tradenames, such as the
yellow CZ from Ceylon called "jargon". Cubic zirconia
gemstones are cut in the same fashion as diamonds, and like diamonds
the size of the gemstone is usually indicated by its weight in carats.
The stone can also be measured in millimeter diameter size. Because
the cubic zirconia stone is so dense and solid, it outweighs a diamond
of the same millimeter size, weighing 1.7 times more than a diamond
of the same millimeter diameter. It is also not as hard as a diamond
rating only an 8 on the Mohs scale. Natural skin oils, soap, and
dirt cause a film that dulls the beauty and luster of the cubic
zirconia, just as it dulls real diamonds. The best cleaning agent
for cubic zirconia is liquid dishwashing detergent, but other gem
and jewelry cleaners can also be used.
Cubic Zirconium
Cubic zirconium (also known as cubic zirconia) is an inexpensive,
lab-produced gemstone that resembles a diamond. Cubic zirconia was
developed in 1977.
Cuff Bracelet
A wide rigid bangle with a narrow opening on one side to allow the
the wrist to pass through.
Cuff link
A decorative fastener worn to close the cuff of a shirt that provides
holes on the cuff for the cufflink rather than closing with buttons.
Culet
The tiny flat facet on the tip of the pavilion of a cut gemstone.
Cullinan Diamond
The Cullinan diamond (also called the Star of Africa) is the largest
diamond yet found, weighing 3,106 carats (roughly 1.3 pounds) in
its rough form. It was mined at the Premier Mine in South Africa
in 1905. This enormous gem was named for the chairman of the company
that owned the mine. It was given to King Edward VII of England
for his birthday in 1907. The diamond was cut (by Joseph J. Asscher
of Amsterdam) into many stones, including the Cullinan I (530 carats,
pendelique-brilliant shaped, the largest cut diamond in the world),
the Cullinan II (317 carats, cushion shaped), Cullinan III (94 carats,
pendelique shaped), Cullinan IV (63 carats, square-brilliant shaped),
and many other smaller stones.
Cultured Pearl
A means of duplicating the organic process of natural pearl creation
invented by Kokichi Mikimoto circa 1893. A tiny irritant like a
bead, grain of sand, or a piece of mother of pearl from another
mollusk can be inserted into the opening of an oyster or mollusk.
This irritant becomes the nucleus of a pearl once that mollusk secretes
a lustrous substance (nacre) to cover the foreign body. An oyster
or mollusk can take between five to seven years to secrete enough
nacre to produce a jewelry quality pearl.
Cupid's darts
Cupid's Darts is another name for rutilated quartz.
Curb Link Chain
A chain composed of oval-shaped links that are twisted and often
diamond-cut so they lie flat.
Cushion Cut
A stone that is cut to look like a square or rectangle with rounded
edges. The cut is usually multi-faceted to give the highest possible
light refraction.
Cut
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading, "cut" refers to the
shape and style of a polished gem. How a diamond is cut has a lot
to do with the stone's fire and brilliance. A diamond that is cut
either too shallow or too deep will not be as brilliant as a properly
cut diamond.
Cut Beads
Cut beads are glass beads that have been faceted. This process makes
the bead reflect and refract more light.
Cut glass
Any glass whose surface has been cut into facets, grooves and depressions
by a large, rotating wheel. Wheel cutting glass was developed in
the 8th century BC, but the technique of faceting wasn't perfected
until the 18th century in England. Although cutting glass is a costly
and difficult process, the brilliant effects are extraordinary!
Cut Steel
Cut steel is steel that is cut with a huge number of facets and
then riveted to a plate of steel (or other metal). It was widely
used in jewelry during the late 18th century, including shoe buckles,
buttons, bracelet, necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, and as a
setting for cameos. Early in the 19th century, cut steel quality
diminished and was stamped out in strips instead of being individually
cut and riveted.
Cut Stones
Common cuts include the brilliant cut, old European cut, emerald
cut, radiant cut, rose cut, step cut, pendelique cut. Mixed cuts
in which the style of the facets above and below the girdle are
different. Other, more unusual cuts, are know as fantasy cuts (like
the heart cut).
CZ
See cubic zirconia.
An earring with a drop suspended like a chandelier. Also called
a "Drop Earring" or "Dangle Earring".
Channel Inlay
A design similar to enameling in which stones, rather than melted
plastic or glass, are cut to shape and set into the recesses of
a piece of jewelry. Commonly seen with jewelry using mother of pearl
and turquoise.
Channel Set
A style of setting in which a number of uniformly sized small stones,
usually of the round cut, princess cut or baguette shapes, are set
side by side in a grooved channel. Unlike most setting methods the
stones are not secured individually with prongs and there is no
metal visible between the stones.
Chaplet
A garland, wreath, or ornamented band worn around the head. Chaplets
are made of metal with repoussé decoration or embellished
with gemstones and pearls.
Charel
Charel is a mark of relatively rare, medium-quality costume jewelry
made by the Charel Jewelry Company, Inc. of Brooklyn, New York.
Many Charel pieces have pastel-colored plastic stones on plated
metal.
Charm
A pendant or trinket worn on a bracelet, earring or necklace.
Charm Bracelet
A chain link bracelet with charms attached to it. (It's not a charm
bracelet until it has charms attached.)
Charm Ring
A ring with a charm attached to the ring band.
Charoite
Charoite is a fairly recent discovery found in Russia in 1978 in
the Murun mountains in Yakutia, near the Charo River. This is the
only known location for this rare mineral.
It ranges in color from a light lilac to a deep purple and can be
mottled with gray, white and black inclusions. The chatoyant variety
in a bright deep purple, is usually considered more valuable than
the non-chatoyant variety although both are used in jewelry and
compliment a number of other stones.
Chasing
A method of decorating the front, (or outside), of metal objects
by making indentations using shaped punches and a chasing hammer.
The opposite of chasing is repoussé.
Chatelaine
French for "Lady of the House", a chatelaine is an ornamental
chain or pin worn at a woman's waist from which dangle keys, trinkets,
scissors, needle cases, pencils, purse, etc. Chatelaines may be
utilitarian or beautifully decorated and made from precious materials
like silver.
Chatham synthetic rubies
Chatham synthetic rubies (laboratory-created rubies) were introduced
by Carroll Chatham in 1959.
Chaton
A cone shaped rhinestone or crystal.
Chaton setting
A châton setting (also called coronet or arcade setting) is
one in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around a metal
ring.
Chatoyancy
Chatoyancy is the lustrous, cat's eye effect seen in some cabochon
stones, like cat's eye, tiger's eye (pictured above), and sometimes
in other stones, like aquamarine. In chatoyancy, light is reflected
in thin bands within the stone. Chatoyant stones are cut in cabochon
to maximize the lustrous effect.
Chatoyant
A stone having a changeable luster due to the way it reflects light,
such as the cat's-eye or tiger's eye gemstones. From the French
"chatoyer", meaning to shimmer like cats' eyes, from the
French "chat" meaning "cat".
Chenier
Chenier is fine, hollow tubing that is used in the production of
some jewelry findings (like clasps and joints), and lately, in the
actual production of jewelry. The hollow tubes are lightweight and
save in the use of gold. The tubes are hard to bend when they are
empty, so a metal rod is inserted before bending, facilitating the
bending.
Chevron setting
A chevron is a design found in heraldry resembling a shallow inverted
"V". In jewelry design, a "chevron setting"
is reflective of the heraldic chevron in that it is made up of lines
in a shallow inverted "V" pattern.
Chinese opal
Chinese opal is a misnomer for pearl opal (a type of organic opal),
moonstone, or white chalcedony
Chloride
Any compound containing a chlorine atom.
Chlorine
An abundant element which, when isolated, appears as a poisonous,
greenish-yellow gas with a disagreeable odor. It occurs naturally
only as a salt, as in sea-water. Chlorine is used widely to purify
water, as a disinfectant and bleaching agent, and in the manufacture
of many important compounds including chloroform and carbon tetrachloride.
Choker
A close fitting necklace worn tight around the neck like a collar.
Chrome
A hard, brittle, grayish white metal, fusible with difficulty and
resistant to corrosion. Its chief commercial importance is for its
compounds, as potassium chromate, lead chromate, etc., which are
brilliantly colored and are used dyeing and calico printing. The
common modern usage is for very shiny metal objects like chrome
bumpers, etc.
Chrome diopside
Chrome diopside is an emerald-green colored gemstone. It is a chromium-rich
variety of the common mineral diopside (Calcium magnesium silicate).
Chrome diopside has a hardness of 5 to 6 and a specific gravity
of 3.3 to 3.6.
Chromium
A lustrous, hard brittle, steel-blue metallic element, resistant
to corrosion and tarnishing. It is used in the hardening of steel
alloys and the production of stainless steels, in corrosion-resistant
decorative platings, and as a pigment in glass.
Chronograph
A chronograph is a stopwatch mechanism on a watch; it can be started,
stopped and reset independently from the watch.
Chrysoberyl
A rare, hard, yellow-green mineral consisting of alumina and glucina,
(beryllium aluminate), in crystal form. It is popular as a gemstone
for its chatoyant qualities.
Chrysocolla
Chrysocolla (meaning "golden lime" in Greek) is an opaque
blue to blue-green mineral sometimes used in jewelry. It is usually
cut as a cabochon. Chrysocolla (hydrated copper silicate) is found
embedded in rock crystal in copper mines in the USA, Russia, Chile,
and the Congo. Although Chrysocolla has been used in ornaments since
the time of the ancient Greeks, it was only described mineralogically
in 1968. Its hardness varies from 2 to 4.
Chrysolite
A mineral composed of silica, magnesia, and iron sometimes used
as a gem. Chrysolite ranges in color from a light pea green to a
deep olive green and an oily shine. It is common in certain volcanic
rocks and meteorites. Mystics have claimed that this lustrous green
stone drives away evil and has special healing properties. The name
chrysolite has been used in the past for yellow varieties of tourmaline
and topaz.
Chrysoprase
Chrysoprase is the most valued variety of the mineral chalcedony
(microcrystalline quartz) that contains nickel, giving it an apple-green
color. Chrysoprase is porous and translucent. It is usually cut
as a cabichon, and has been used since ancient times. Chrysoprase
has a hardness of 7 and a specific gravity of 2.6. Chrysoprase is
mined in Australia, Russia (the Ural Mtns.), Brazil, and the western
USA. Chrysoprase is sometimes called "Australian jade,"
but it is not related to jade. Hard-to-detect imitation chrysoprase
is made by staining agate with chromium salts.
Cigar band
A very wide band-style ring.
Ciner
Ciner is a jewelry complany that was founded in 1895 by Emanuel
Ciner, originally producing fine jewelry. Since 1931, Ciner began
producing high-end costume jewelry with very good quality stones
(including Swarovski rhinestones) and 18-carat gold plated finishes.
Their "pearls" are specially made by coating glass beads
with pearl luster many times. Many Ciner pieces have a multitude
of tiny, good-quality stones. The starfish pin above has jade-colored
stones and pavé rhinestones.
Cini
Cini produces jewelry made of silver and gold-plated silver (vermeil),
some with colored rhinestones (in later pieces). Cini pieces are
known for their beautiful workmanship, artistic designs, and intricate
detail. The company was formed by Guglielmo Cini, who was trained
as a jeweler in Florence, Italy, and emigrated to the USA in 1922.
He made jewelry in Boston, Massachusetts but moved to Laguna Beach,
California, in 1957. The company went out of business in 1970, but
has been reopened by the Cini grandaughters, Amy and Molly. The
vintage silver lion pin above is by Cini.
Cinnabar
Cinnabar is the mineral Mercury Sulfide. Its color ranges from cinnamon
to scarlet to brick red and it can be translucent to transparent.
It is often carved. Cinnabar has a hardness of 2 - 2.5 (very soft)
and a specific gravity of 8.1 (quite heavy).
Cinnamon stone
A brown or yellowish-brown variety of garnet more properly called
"essonite".
Cire perdu
Cire perdu (French for "lost wax") is a process of casting
metal in which the original model is sculpted in wax. The wax is
entombed in clay, and the wax is then melted out, producing a hollow
mold. The mold is then filled with molten metal. The clay is broken
off and the cast metal remains.
Citrine
Named after the French word for lemon, "citron". Citrine
is often incorrectly called quartz topaz or citrine topaz. A variety
of quartz, citrine is found in light yellow, amber-brown, and a
brilliant orange that may be confused with fine imperial topaz.
Most citrine comes from South America. In ancient times, citrine
was revered as a gift of the sun and believed to be a powerful antidote
to a viper's venom. Citrine is the birthstone for November.
Claddagh Ring
First crafted by Master Goldsmith Richard Joyce in 1689, it is named
after Claddagh, the fishing village he lived in at the time, which
overlooks Galway Bay. The ring belongs to a class of rings called
"Fede" or "Faith rings", which date from Roman
times and were popular in the Middle Ages throughout Europe. Whereas
"Fede" rings have only two clasped hands, symbolizing
faith, trust, or "plighted troth", Claddagh rings have
two hands clasping a heart, symbolizing love, surmounted by a crown,
symbolizing loyalty. The ring worn on the right hand with the heart
turned outward indicates that your heart is yet unoccupied. Worn
on the right hand with the heart turned inward indicates that love
is being considered. Worn on the left hand the with the heart turned
inward shows everyone that your heart is truly spoken for.
Clarity
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Gemstones with the highest
clarity contain few or no inclusions (imperfections) in the stone's
crystalline structure. Clarity is graded with a 10x magnifier. The
clarity rating of a diamond ranges from FL (flawless) to I (inclusions
visible to the naked eye).
Clasp
A device used to connect two ends of a necklace, bracelet or watch
strap. Popular types of clasps include: Barrel, box, Lobster claw,
and Spring ring clasps. (See individual listings).
Class Ring
A ring that commemorates graduating from high school. It is usually
engraved with the name of the school, the year of graduation, and
a gem featuring one of the school's colors.
Claudette
Claudette (and C. Claudette) are marks on costume jewelry made by
the Premier Jewelry Company, Inc. of New York, New York, USA. The
relatively rare Claudette marks were first used in December, 1945.
Claw
A claw is a metal prong that holds a stone securely in a setting.
Claw Setting
A way of securing a stone in its mount using small prongs that surround
it.
Cleaning Jewelry
The safest and easiest way to clean most jewelry is with a detergent
bath. Swish together warm water and any mild liquid detergent. Clean
the jewelry with a soft brush while it's in the suds, then rinse
it under warm running water. Pat it dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Avoid using brushes, which can scratch gold. Never boil gold, and
avoid using ammonia, toothpaste, a powder cleanser or scouring pads.
Keep gold away from chlorine, lotions, cosmetics and perm solutions,
since these products may discolor or dissolve gold alloys. gemstones
rarely need cleaning unless they become dirty from hand lotion,
hairspray or other products. They can be cleaned using a soft cloth
with mild soap and water, but rinse well. If you are using a silver
or gold jewelry dip solution, most are safe for gemstones, but read
the label to make sure. Do not boil gemstones. Do not wear pearls
while applying cosmetics, hair sprays or perfume. It's best not
to wear pearl strands while bathing, because water can weaken the
string. Wipe pearl strands with a damp cloth after each use. Do
not clean cultured pearls with chemicals, abrasives or jewelry cleaner.
Clear Quartz
A colorless transparent mineral consisting of silicon dioxide in
crystal form. See Quartz.
Cleavage
Cleavage is the tendency which a stone has to fracture along its
crystal structure.
Clip-on
A piece of jewelry designed to be attached by means of a clip, such
as a clip-back earring.
Clip-back Earring
A hinged ring with a pad, called a "comfort back", at
one end to secure the earring to the earlobe without requiring that
the ear be pierced.
Cloisonné
Occasionally called "cell enameling", it is a type of
enameling in which compartments made of thin strips of metal soldered
onto a metal plate are filled with powdered glass prior to firing.
The glass powder melts filling the compartments with solid glass.
Closed Setting
A closed setting is one in which the back of the stone is not exposed
(the metal is not cut away behind the stone).
Cloud
A form of inclusion, “clouds” are white milky areas
that can found in the diamond.
Cluster
Several stones grouped together in a jewelry setting.
Cluster Brooch
A brooch developed in the 14th century in which a large central
gemstone is surrounded by a cluster of smaller gemstones and pearls.
Cluster Earring
A decorative earring made up of a cluster of glass and/or metal
beads and stones
Cluster Ring
A ring featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a number of smaller
stones.
Cluster setting
A cluster setting is one in which small stones or pearls are set
around a larger stone.
Clutch
A device that is slid along a post to secure a piece of jewelry,
such as the earring back of a stud for pierced ears.
Cocktail Ring
A large oversized ring set with precious or semiprecious stones
popular during the 1940s and 1950s.
Cognac Diamond
A cognac diamond is a cognac-brown diamond (having a color of C7).
Most cognac diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in the Argyle
Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen content.
Coiffe
A net made of gold or silver threads, decorated with gems or pearls
worn on the head.
Coin Silver
A silver alloy that is 80% silver and 20% copper. Many European
silver pieces are coin silver and are marked "800", indicating
that 800 parts out of 1000 are silver.
Coin-style edge
see Milgrain edge.
Collar
A necklace worn close around the neck. See also "choker".
Collarette
A collarette (also known as a bib necklace) is a short necklace
with flowing ornaments at the front.
Collet
The ring of metal that surrounds and secures the stone in a bezel
setting.
Collet Setting
A collet setting is a very early method of setting gemstones. A
collet is a thin, round band of metal that goes all around the stone.
One edge of the metal is crimped over the edges of the stone and
the other edge is soldered to the metal of the jewelry, holding
the stone in place. This closed setting sometimes also had metal
claws along the outside to hold the stone even more securely (the
claws were not used much after the 1200's and 1300's.
Color
One of the 4 C s of diamond grading, the term "color"
actually refers to the absence of color in a diamond. A diamond
acts like a prism letting light pass through, refracting back to
the human eye, into a rainbow of color. The color scale breaks up
the subtlety and various grades of a diamond’s color from
purest white to yellow and brown. The letters D through Z are used
to designate a diamonds color with D being colorless and Z-graded
stones having a lot of color.
Colored Diamond
Diamondss can be found in a full spectrum of colors. Colored or
“Fancy” diamonds are simply referring to diamonds that
are not white.
Colored Gold
An alloy of gold and other metals producing rose, yellow, white,
and green shades.
Comfort back
A rubber or plastic pad that goes over the clip end of a clip-on
earring to cushion the earlobe.
Comfort Fit
A ring that adds to the comfort of the wearer by being curved on
the inside of the shank.
Commemorative Wares
Items used to commemorate an important or historical event, such
as a battle, coronation, or wedding.
Compass Ring
A rotating ring that can be used to determine compass direction
by using the position of the sun and the time of day.
Composite Suite
A composite suite is a piece of jewelry that can be taken apart
into two or more pieces which can also be worn. For example, a necklace
may be disassembled into two bracelets.
Concave
Concave simply means "curving inward", like the inside
of an egg shell. The opposite of Convex.
Conch
Conch is a marine animal (a mollusk) with a large, beautiful pearly
shell that varies in color, but if often white or pink (pink is
the most valued color). Queen conch has a large, pink shell. Conch
shell is often used to make jewelry. Conch is made into beads and
cameos. Conch has a hardness of 2.85 (it is relatively soft).
Concha
One of the ovals of a segmented silver belt or bridle. Also a reference
to the belt itself. Now commonly called a "Concho Belt."
From the Spanish word "concha", meaning "shell".
Concho
See Concha.
Condition , Excellent
A piece of jewelry in Excellent Condition will show reasonable evidence
of wear, and have a fine patina.
Condition, Fine
A piece of jewelry in Fine Condition may show slight wear, but not
enough to have developed a patina.
Condition, Good
A piece of jewelry in Good Condition will show substantial evidence
of wear. It will have a noticeable patina which may include numerous
very fine pits or lines. It will not have cracks, chips, obviously
discolored or poorly replaced stones, evidence of glue or other
repairs, or other evidence of hard wear considered to be damage.
Damage of any kind is separately detailed in the item description,
and generally items with damage appear at very reduced prices in
the Bargain section.
Condition, Mint
A piece of jewelry having no signs of wear whatsoever, including
no discolored stones. A piece that is in Mint Condition is in virtually
the same condition as it was when it left the manufacturer. Considering
that vintage jewelry is usually 50 or more years old, and that it
likely has been worn, it is obviously quite rare to find a piece
that is truly in Mint Condition.
Confetti lucite
Confetti lucite is transparent plastic with glitter or other small
pieces of material within it. Whimsical bangles, earrings, pins,
necklaces and other jewelry have been made from confetti lucite.
Continenta
Continental was a Canadian costume jewelry company that produced
good-quality pieces, usually studded with colorful rhinestones.
Contra luz opal
Contra luz (also spelled contraluz) opals are transparent opals
that show a brilliant play of iridescence only when light shines
through the stone. When the light is on the same side as the viewer,
the iridescence is not readily seen (this quality makes it difficult
to design jewelry using these beautiful gemstones). Contra luz means
"against the light." Unlike other opals, contra luz opals
are usually faceted (rather than cabochoned).
Convex
Simply means "curving outward", like the surface of a
ball. The opposite of Concave.
Copper
A common reddish-brown metallic element, copper is the only metal
which occurs abundantly in large masses as opposed to small veins
or nuggets that must be mined out of other rocks. It is also found
in various ores such as chalcopyrite, chalcocite, cuprite, and malachite.
When alloyed with tin it forms bronze, and when alloyed with zinc
it forms brass. Copper is an excellent conductor of heat and electricity
and is widely used for electrical wiring, as well as water piping
and corrosion-resistant parts. When in moist conditions, a greenish
layer forms on the outside. It has been extracted and used for thousands
of years. The name is derived from the Greek "kupros"
(the island of Cyprus), called "Cyprian brass", and known
by the Romans as 'cuprum.'
Coral
Coral is a form of calcium carbonate, (like aragonite or marble),
secreted in long chains by coral polyps, who live in colonies under
the ocean. Coral can be found all over the world, but the bulk of
coral used in jewelry making has always come from the waters off
Sardinia and the coast of Sicily, in the Mediterranean. Coral comes
in colors from vivid orange, red, and white, to salmon and pale
pink (called angelskin coral). In jewelry making, coral is either
carved into beads, cameos, and other forms, or is left in its natural
branch-like form and just polished. During the mid-Victorian era
large cameo brooches of coral finely carved in high-relief floral
sprays or faces were popular. It used to be thought that coral protected
the wearer, so it was a traditional gift to children. Since it is
composed of calcium carbonate, real coral will effervesce if touched
with acid. Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain, or plastic
and will not effervesce when touched with acid.
Coral
Coral is an animal that grows in colonies in the ocean. Coral polyps
secrete a strong calcium structure that is used in jewelry making.
Coral ranges in color from pale pink (called angelskin coral) to
orange to red to white to black. The most valued colors are deep
red (called noble coral) and pink. In jewelry making, coral is either
carved into beads, cameos, or other forms, or is left in its natural
branch-like form and just polished. It used to be thought that coral
protected the wearer, so it was a traditional gift to children.
Coral has a hardness of about 3.5 and a specific gravity of 2.6
to 2.7. Since it is composed of calcium carbonate, coral will effervesce
if touched with acid. Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain,
or plastic.
Corallium rubrum
A valuable red coral introduced to the Indians by the Spanish.
Cord belt
A thick belt worn on the waist, usually with a caftan.
Cornelian
Cornelian (also called carnelian and carneole) is a reddish form
of chalcedony (a type of quartz). This translucent stone has a waxy
luster. The best carnelian is from India. Most commercial carnelian
is really stained chalcedony. Carnelian has a hardness of 7 and
a specific gravity of 2.61.
Cornucopia
The cornucopia is a symbol of plenty and is used sometimes in jewelry.
The Trifari cornucopia pin/clip pictured above is gold colored.
It has a double-pronged fastening mechanism that can be used either
as a fur clip or as a pin.
Coro
Coro, Inc. is the largest costume jewelry company. It was founded
by Cohn and Rosenberger early in 1919, producing reasonably-priced
jewelry. Many Coro pieces are avidly collected, including their
duettes, sterling pieces, and many intricate older pieces.
Coro Duettes
Coro duettes are patented sets of jewelry made by the Coro company.
Each "duette" has two clips which attach to a pin base;
they can be worn as a single pin or as two clips.
Coronet
A small or inferior type of crown worn by a person of high rank
but lower than a sovereign.
Coronet setting
See Arcade Setting.
Corundum
The name of a family of stones composed of crystallized aluminum
and oxygen that includes rubies and sapphires. The color of these
stones depends on the oxides present in their composition. Corundum
is one of the hardest minerals second only to diamonds rating a
9 on the Mohs scale. See alumina.
Coventry
Sarah Coventry is a company that produced mid-range costume jewelry.
The Sarah Coventry jewelry company was founded in Newark, New Jersey,
USA by Charles H. Stuart (who earlier founded the Emmons jewelry
company) in November, 1948. He named the company after his his grand-daughter.
Sarah Coventry jewelry was sold at home fashion shows until 1984,
when the company was sold. Both women's and men's jewelry was produced
under the marks Sarah Coventry (first used in May, 1949), SC (first
used in Oct. 1953), Sarah Cov (first used in Jan. 1960). Sarah Coventry
jewelry came with a "Lifetime Guarantee" which read, "May
be sent back for repair to: P.O. Box 7899, Warwick, RI 02887. Please
include handling charge of 1.50."
Cowrie Shell
The highly polished and brightly marked shells of tropical marine
gastropods of the genus Cypraea, some of which are used as currency
in the South Pacific and Africa. Small cowrie shells are commonly
used as beads in jewelry.
Crimp Bead
Small soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure clasps onto
the ends of cords or chains.
Crown
The upper part of a cut diamond or stone above the girdle.
Crown Glass
Crown glass is glass that contains no lead oxide. Some fake rhinestones
are made from crown glass.
Crown Height
A measurement of the distance from the girdle to the table on a
diamond or other cut stone.
Crystal
A fine, high-quality glass invented in 17th century England. In
order to be considered crystal rather than simple glass, the product
must contain at least 10% lead oxide. The lead oxide is attributed
to providing the glass with extraordinary qualities of brilliance,
sound and a suitable texture for cutting or engraving. Some of the
finest crystal ever made is from Baccarat in France (est. 1816)
and Waterford in Ireland (est. 1729).
Crystal (GLASS)
Crystal is high-quality glass containing at least 10% lead oxide.
Lead added to the melt produces very clear glass resembling rock
crystal. The process of making lead crystal was discovered by the
English glassmaker George Ravenscroft in 1676. Crystal is colored
by adding various metallic oxides to the melt.
Crystal (NATURAL)
A crystal is a solid whose atoms form a very regular structure.
Some crystals include quartz, diamond, and emerald.
Crystal Habit
Crystal habit is the crystal form that a particular crystal has.
The most common crystal habits are:
Prismatic - elongated with parallel sides, like emerald, tourmaline
Tabular - short and flat (table-like), like morganite
Ocatahedral - eight faces, like diamond
Dodecahedral - 12 faces, like garnet
Acicular - needle-shaped, like rutilated quartz
Platy - occurring in very thin plates, like hematite
Crystal Systems
Crystals are divided into seven crystal systems, according to their
optical properties (how light bends within the crystal), plane of
symmetry, axis of symmetry, center of symmetry, crystallographic
axis. Within each of the systems, the cyrstals can mineralize into
different crystal habits (form). The seven crystal systems are:
cubic systems, tetragonal systems, hexagonal systems, trigonal systems,
orthorhombic systems, monoclinic systems, and triclinic systems.
For more information on crystal systems, click here.
Crystalline
A substance composed of crystals or resembling crystal in transparency,
structure and outline.
Crystallize
To cause a material to form crystals or to assume both the internal
structure and external form of a crystal.
Cuban Link Chain
A standard cable chain with oval shaped links that are each decorated
with a twisting pattern resembling rope.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ)
A clear, hard, mass-produced gemstone cut to resemble a diamond.
The mineral baddeleyite has the same chemical composition, but to
become a CZ the mineral must be heated to almost 5000 degrees Fahrenheit
and have an oxide stabilizer such as yttrium or calcium added to
keep it from reverting back to its original form when cooled. Almost
all the rough CZ's in the market are composed of zirconium oxide
and yttrium oxide, both of which are naturally white but combine
to form a brilliant clear crystal. Like diamonds, the best cubic
zirconia gems are colorless but colored forms are also manufactured.
Vivid green CZ is sometimes referred to as C-OX, and CZ in numerous
colors is frequently sold under various tradenames, such as the
yellow CZ from Ceylon called "jargon". Cubic zirconia
gemstones are cut in the same fashion as diamonds, and like diamonds
the size of the gemstone is usually indicated by its weight in carats.
The stone can also be measured in millimeter diameter size. Because
the cubic zirconia stone is so dense and solid, it outweighs a diamond
of the same millimeter size, weighing 1.7 times more than a diamond
of the same millimeter diameter. It is also not as hard as a diamond
rating only an 8 on the Mohs scale. Natural skin oils, soap, and
dirt cause a film that dulls the beauty and luster of the cubic
zirconia, just as it dulls real diamonds. The best cleaning agent
for cubic zirconia is liquid dishwashing detergent, but other gem
and jewelry cleaners can also be used.
Cubic Zirconium
Cubic zirconium (also known as cubic zirconia) is an inexpensive,
lab-produced gemstone that resembles a diamond. Cubic zirconia was
developed in 197 | 
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